Sick Chicken Diet / Recipe

*** Sick Chicken Diet / Recipe ***

There can be many reasons why your chickens get sick ranging from disease to eating something they shouldn't have to a crop issue. But what you need to quickly identify is, does your chicken need a vet or is there anything you can do at home to help?

Well, we have put together this nutrient rich diet or recipe if you like and what you can give to your sick chicken / chickens before deciding if a vet visit is necessary. You can also use this diet / recipe in recovery situations too,  from surgery or fox/predator attacks and the diet / recipe is not just specific to illness situations. 

The diet / Recipe:

• 1 teaspoon of cod liver oil
• 1 teaspoon of honey
• 2 tablespoons of natural (live) yogurt
• 2 to 4 tablespoons of either rolled oats or baby rice
• 1 tablespoon of lentils or similar
• 2 tablespoons of grated apple (wuth juice) or apple cider vinegar
• 1/2 to 1 tablespoon of vitamin powder (multi-vitamin)
• 1/2 to 1 cooked egg yolk (crumbled into mixture)

Directions:

1. Mix to a crumble like mixture/consistency and not one that's runny and feed as normal (force feeding is ok if and when required) but in that particular event, try and roll into a pellet shape to make it easier both for you and the bird and gently massage the neck and crop as it goes down if the hen doesn't eat on it's own accord.

2. Make diet / recipe fresh daily.

3. A drink should always be available (with added vitamins) and again (force feeding is ok if and when required) but be careful not to aspirate the bird, a petite or syringe is better to use and drop by drop allowing the bird to swallow itself and down the 'left hand side' of the beak/mouth.

4. Also have regular feed available at all times alongside the diet/recipe.

5. Feed once a day (in the morning) for 2-3 days in order to see if there is any improvement. If visible improvement is made then continue with diet/recipe until the chicken or chickens are back on their feet and can go back into the flock (remember) a sick chicken or chickens MUST always be separated from the flock to protect the flock.

Little to no improvement:

If there isn't any visible improvement within 2-3 days then you should seriously consider contacting your vet (if you already haven't done so). PLEASE NOTE that this sick chicken diet / recipe is NOT and in no way designed to replace the need or a vet or vet treatment and is just something you can do at home to help because a vet's interaction or intervention is NOT always needed.

© The Poultry Pages 2021.

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Tips To Help Prevent The Spread Of Bird Flu

** Tips To Help Prevent The Spread Of Bird Flu **

With so much scaremongering going on and with so much bad advice online and on many poultry forums, our aim here is to provide poultry keepers with hints and tips to help prevent the spread of bird flu (Avian Influenza) and protect their birds.





Restrictions are all well and good and designed under the best intentions, to try and limit or prevent spread of the disease but let's face it, this is not always possible or not possible at all for many poultry keepers especially those who are completely free range, which got us thinking what WE can do as poultry keepers to help prevent any outbreaks or limit the spread of the disease??? So here we take a look...



Make a disinfectant foot bath to dip your feet in prior to entering your coop and after exiting your coop.


Regularly disinfectant your coop, equipment, feeders and drinkers


Burn any dry bedding rather than composting it

Regularly sanitise the ground within your coop / run


Regularly clean out your coop and turn over soil / ground in your run


Put your coop "under cover" or limit access from wild birds. It doesn't have to be pretty just sensible

 

Keep all poultry away from wild birds and/or their droppings

 
 

Apply debris netting to your coop/run to limit contact with wild birds

 

Try and avoid poultry auctions and sales - As many birds from different area's and husbandry levels can mix which can spread disease

Latest Guidance & History

• https://www.gov.uk/guidance/avian-influenza-bird-flu#history

Sign Up For Email / Sms Disease Alerts

• https://www.gov.uk/guidance/apha-alert-subscription-service

Defra Registration

• https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/poultry-including-game-birds-registration-rules-and-forms

Backyard Poultry Bio-security Info Graphic

• https://goo.gl/HrqjKD

Updates on bird flu from around Europe

• https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/avian-influenza-bird-flu-in-europe

Links to guidance/advice about bird flu

• https://www.gov.uk/government/news/new-measures-to-protect-poultry-against-avian-flu
• https://www.gov.uk/guidance/avian-influenza-bird-flu#biosecurity
• https://www.gov.uk/guidance/avian-influenza-bird-flu#about-avian-influenza

Avian Flu Symptoms for Birds

• sudden death without any signs
• lack of coordination
• purple discoloration of the wattles, combs, and legs
• soft-shelled or misshapen eggs
• lack of energy and appetite
• diarrhoea
• swelling of the head, eyelids, comb, wattles and hocks
• nasal discharge
• decreased egg production
• coughing, sneezing

Poultry workers should be aware of the signs of avian influenza in poultry, so they can take immediate steps to protect themselves and other workers, quarantine the farm to prevent the spread of disease, and report the disease to the responsible animal health authorities.

Take anti-viral medication & get the current influenza vaccine if appropriate
In the event of an avian influenza outbreak, workers who will be involved in disease control and eradication activities should consult their healthcare provider about the advisability of taking anti-viral medications for influenza. The Centres for Disease Control (CDC) has recommended that workers receive a daily influenza antiviral drug for the entire time they are in direct contact with infected poultry or contaminated surfaces. The CDC recommends workers involved in avian influenza disease control and eradication activities should also get the current season's human general influenza vaccine. These precautionary measures could reduce the possibility of infection with avian and human influenza viruses.

Avian Flu Symptoms for Humans
All poultry workers should know the signs and symptoms of avian influenza virus infection in humans so that measures can be taken for immediate treatment. The signs and symptoms may include fever, cough, sore throat, conjunctivitis (eye infections), and muscle aches. Infection with avian influenza viruses can also lead to pneumonia, acute respiratory distress and other severe and life-threatening complications. A worker who experiences any of these symptoms or illnesses, or who may have been exposed to the avian influenza virus, should seek medical care and tell the healthcare provider before arrival that exposure to the avian influenza virus may have occurred.

We hope this article is of help to you and we will continue to update this page as much as we can, however any concerns we suggest that you contact DEFRA on 03459 33 55 77 or your local animal enforcement agency.

©  The Poultry Pages

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Health Checking Your Chickens

 

*** Health Checking Your Chickens! ***

It's really important to health check your chickens and do 'daily' checks to ensure your flock is healthy, as just one poorly bird can infect your entire flock. The main source of illness transmission is via the water source... have you ever heard the term "we all drink from the same pot"? well this saying is rather fitting when it comes to chickens as they literally do all drink from the same drinker, hence the ease of illness transmission.

Carrying out a quick check on your hens daily will allow you to spot any health problems very quickly. This will allow you to manage and deal with the health issue before the problem becomes serious.

Simple Daily Checks

Eyes - Your chicken's eyes should be free from discharge, fully open, and bright.

Beak & Nostril's - Your chickens beak should be clean, dry and their nostril's should be clear of any discharge, crusts or dirt. Any discharge or crust could be a sign of cold or a respiratory infection.

Comb - The comb should be firm, upright and bright red if the chicken is in lay. Chickens that are not in lay could have a pale and floppy comb. It is worth mentioning that some breeds of chicken naturally have floppy combs, like the Leghorn. Younger chickens will have paler and smaller combs, which will increase in size as they mature.

Wattles - Wattles should be vibrant like the comb (same colour) and should be loosely hanging almost like males testicles, even more so on a cockerel. They should also be free of scabs/black scabs which could indicate mites and/or pox.

Droppings - The droppings should be firm and dark brown with white on them. 10% of their droppings will be sloppy. This is perfectly normal and is just a sign that your chickens gut is cleaning itself.

Feathers - Chickens feathers should be shiny and full. If there are any bald patches or the feathers look unkempt then this could be a sign of problem, such as lice or mites. Annual moults do occur when old feathers drop and are replaced with new feathers. 

Crop - The crop should be empty in the morning when you first let your chickens out. If the crop is full at this time is could indicate a blocked crop.

Legs - You should check the scales on the legs. They should be smooth and not lifting. If they are this could be an indication of scaly legs.

Feet & Pad - The feet should be smooth and clean and free from lifting/crusty scales. Lifting does occur has hens get older as the scales separate but the should not be crusty. The pads should also be smooth and clean and free of any scabs, which would indicate (bumblefoot).

Ears - Chickens ears are often coloured (for example) red or white or even blue. They should be free from dust, dirt, discharge and mites. And indicator of an ear problem would be your chicken scratching at the ear which possibly could be ear mite. The colour is NOT a problem and usually an indicator of what colour egg the hen will lay. 

Mouth - When opening the beak and looking into the mouth, this should be a nice pale red colour and be clean. If there is any crusts or a substance that looks like plaque or cheese then this could be a sign of canker. In the roof of their moth/beak there is a 'slit' that connects to their nose/nostril's, again this should be clean and clear of crusts or dirt. Any crusts or dirt should be cleared and could indicate a cold or respiratory illness.

Vent - The vent should be a pale red colour and again should be clean. It should be pulsating, almost like a pair of lips moving. If their is any sign or discharge which would be white in colour this should be cleaned and treated for (vent gleet).

Nails - A chickens nails are just like ours and constantly grow BUT should naturally wear down as they scratch about the ground for food etc. Along with their beak too! However, domesticated hens may not have access to free range which would naturally wear them down so periodically may need trimming. If you have to trim, be careful of the qwick, that runs 2 thirds of the nail otherwise it will bleed and is a pain to stop.

Overall Stance - Your chickens should be bright, alert, active, running about, searching for food, bickering and pecking at other members of the flock (pecking order), stretching their wings and generally should just be looking happy and healthy. If you have a chicken that's hunched, has dropped wings, pale in colour, sat in a corner by itself - then this should ring alarm bells with you and indicates you have a problem with that particular bird or within the flock. Any sick birds should be removed from the flock and treated immediately but don't forget to treat the ENTIRE flock, even if no symptoms are present as going back to the opening statement (they all drink from the same drinker) so transmission of illnesses are really common.

Preening and Dust Bathing - Healthy chickens preen and dust bath. It's part of their daily ritual and actually makes up 2 thirds of their overall daily activity. If you notice birds not preening or dust bathing then again this could be an indicator of a problem like lice or mites being present on the bird. 

None of the above is rocket science and should already be part of your daily or even weekly checks as part of being a poultry-keeper. An happy flock = an happy flockman! The aim of our articles are to educate and help other keepers, particularly new keepers who don't know these things and are keen to learn. We all started somewhere and as a novice keeper to, however having said that (everyday is a school day) and I am still learning myself even though I consider myself as an experienced poultry-keeper.

© The Poultry Pages 2021.

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Chicken Feed Storage Mistakes & Avoiding Mouldy Feed Problems

 

** Chicken Feed Storage Mistakes & Avoiding Mouldy Feed Problems **

Did you know that chickens WILL eat just about anything including mice as pictured here but they do know what they like and will often leave foods behind that's not to their liking or that doesn't interest them.

It is always best to feed fresh foods daily so that it doesn't spoil or go off or out of date and feed your hens twice daily (morning & teatime) and only feeding them enough and what they will eat again to prevent waste and also vermin picking up the scraps left behind.

Some poultry keepers prefer to feed on a Ad-Lib basis via a automatic / gravity feed feeder and again this is an ideal way for the chickens to only take what they need/require, stops waste and also vermin picking up the scraps, but it's essential to close these off at night or make them inaccessible so that vermin cannot also help themselves.

****** Feeding / Feed Storage Tips ******

Chicken feed storage is not something that many of us put much thought into. We’re usually more concerned about coop design, predator control, and keeping our birds healthy. As important as these things are, proper chicken feed storage is just as important, and it doesn’t take too much effort to do it right! Unfortunately, if stored incorrectly, your chicken feed can make your birds sick, make them stop laying, or in extreme instances, kill them. You may be feeding chickens table scraps and other treats, but it’s still imperative that you provide your hens and roosters with good, palatable, and well-balanced chicken feed.

** Chicken Feed Storage **

Livestock feed is a relatively stable product, but there are a few common reasons that feed is lost or spoiled. Rodents, insects, fungi, moisture, and rancidity are the most common reasons that feed is lost on the farm.

** Rodent Damage **

Chicken feed storage isn’t just about finding a place to park your extra bag of feed. Mice and rats are good at finding your stores, and if your feed is hanging out in the bag you bought it in, then it’s likely that a rodent will chew your bag open. If you have a large rodent population, or if you give them enough time, mice or rats can easily relieve you of lots of feed, which is money down the drain. What’s more, mice and rats carry diseases your birds can catch. If rodents infect your feed supply, you can quickly make your birds ill. Additionally, giving rodents an easy and plentiful food supply makes your life harder when trying to rid your coop of disease - carrying vermin.

** Insect Damage **

Chickens love to eat bugs, but not all bugs are clean. Insects, just like rodents, can be carriers of disease. If those carriers live in your feed, then you could be feeding your birds diseased feed. Moths, woodlice, slugs, weevils, and beetles all love to eat livestock feed. Just like rodents, if there are enough of them, they can make a serious dent in your feed stores. You want to feed your chickens, not the pests.

** Fungal Damage **

Proper chicken feed storage is essential, especially if you want to prevent your feed from going mouldy. Mould in the feed is not uncommon, and you may even find small chunks of mouldy feed in a bagged feed from the feed mill itself. Mouldy feed in the milling process is unavoidable since little nooks and crannies of the system collect bits of feed that spoil in the system. Eventually, those bits will detach and wind up in a batch of feed. Small chunks of spoiled feed are nothing to be concerned about, but when your entire feed store is infected with fungi, you have an issue. The fungus that grows in feed can create mycotoxins that can poison your birds and can give your feed an off flavor that your birds will not like.

** Chicken Feed Storage **

Feed mills are large, vast systems, but sometimes as mentioned above, you’ll find chunks / impacted feed within your sacks of feed. These chunks are common and are simply remnants that were hidden in the system.

** Humidity **

The biggest challenge of chicken feed storage is moisture. Humidity can encourage the growth of fungi, break down pelleted feed into mush and outright spoil your feed. The most common reason that fed gets wet is rain or the natural condensation effect that occurs in storage containers. Many people use barrels or bins to keep their feed safe and dry, but as the heat rises and falls with every day, these barrels collect condensation on the inside walls. This process can be exaggerated if these bins are in direct sunlight. If you live in a climate that has big swings in temperature, keep your bins out of the sun. If you can’t keep them out of the sun, consider insulating them with reflective insulation to reduce the heat and slow the change of temperature. Insulating bins will help reduce the accumulation of moisture because of inside temperature changes. Additionally, allowing your containers to vent, will let the moisture out. Make sure your ventilation doesn’t allow bugs, rodents or rain into your feed.

** Rancid Feed **

Mixed feeds don’t last forever. Just like food in your refrigerator can turn rancid, so can your feed. Fats used in the production of chicken feed will eventually oxidise, which turns the feed rancid. A rancid feed will have an odour about it, and it’s not a pleasant odour. Feed that has turned rancid contains toxins that will stunt a bird’s growth, and the taste will be off-putting. This poor taste will lead to your birds to avoid eating it as well, and if you’re raising meat birds, that will mean you’ll see lower weight gains. Fungi and insect damage hasten this process, which is why proper chicken feed storage is critical.

** How Long Does Feed Keep? **

When grain is ground at the mill and your chicken feed is mixed together, it’s contaminated with fungi and insect larva. It’s unavoidable just like those errant chunks of mouldy feed, just because the feed mill’s system is bound to have some contaminated feed somewhere in the vast production system. It’s an unfortunate, but unavoidable fact of livestock feed as they also face the same challenges keeping their feed fresh and pest free just like us during production and also storage. Most chicken feed is pelleted before it’s bagged, which does a lot of good for the shelf life of your chicken feed. When feed is pelleted, it’s pressed through a blazing hot pellet die. This cooking and the pressing action heats the feed and kills the lion’s share of contaminants in the ration. If properly kept, your pelleted feed should store for a minimum of three months, and if conditions are well - regulated, up to six months.

** Chicken Feed Storage Idea's **

Steel and plastic barrels are good options for feed storage, but be aware that non - food - grade steel barrels may react with your feed.

** Does Feed Type Matter? **

All feed should be stored in a cool, dry, and dark place, but some foodstuffs are more prone to spoilage than others. Manufactured and pelleted feed that does not include extra fats, such as molasses, should all keep between the three to six-month window. Your foodstuffs will store longer if given the right environment but will spoil quickly if exposed to moisture, sun, and rodents.

** Where to Keep Feed **

Formulated feed likes to be parked in a cool, dry place. If you have the luxury of having a feed room to store your feed, lucky you. For those of us who don’t have that luxury, it’s wise to keep your feed in a container that stays out of direct sunlight and is watertight, but not necessarily airtight.

** What About Containers? **

Drums and dustbins are a popular place to keep feed, especially for chicken feed storage, but be aware that feed can react with metal containers. If using steel, or a galvanised bin, keep bagged feeds in the bag instead of pouring them into the steel container itself. Food - safe steel barrels have a non - reactive liner in them, usually made of porcelain or food - safe paint/oil/wax. These liners will protect your feed from reacting with the steel. Plastic or “Polly” barrels are best for avoiding reactivity. However, they don’t resist light as well as metal, and they don’t resist chewing by rodents as well as steel.

** Keeping Your Birds Happy **

You’ve spent the time to learn how and what to feed chickens, now take it a step further and make sure your feed stays in top form. For those of us who have only a handful of chickens, buying and storing large quantities of feed at a time can be a challenge. The bottom line is; as long as you keep your feed safe, cool, and dry, you’ll have no issues with spoiled feed, and your chickens will have clean, fresh feed to support their egg laying!

** Other Advice **

Daily salad stuff, baked ground egg shells and sometimes fruit will keep chickens happy and healthy. Also supermarket cast offs, throw away's or manager special priced produce would also be a welcomed treat for them as well. Some people also have a second refrigerator for their livestock to keep any perishable food fresh for longer. A watermelon seems to be a key favourite.

©  The Poultry Pages

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Tips For Keeping Poultry/Animals Calm During A Fireworks Display

 

*** Tips For Keeping Poultry/Animals Calm During A Fireworks Display ***

It's a constant worry every year as Bonfire Night approaches and the fear that a fireworks display will cause poultry/animals and livestock to threat, injure themselves or even die as a result of the noise. Every year pet owners and poultry/livestock keepers take to social media and moan about the noise of fireworks affecting/disturbing their beloved animals and start petitions to BAN this social event. Now, instead of moaning about a time served tradition there is many things we can do to make our beloved animals/poultry/livestock safe, feel safe or block out the noise.

1) Drape old bed sheets over your coop / animal boarding to block out the light, this keeps them calm and relaxed.

2) Extra insulation to deaden noise is also helpful but remember to keep ventilation holes clear. Ideally a good flow of air should be achieved but without gaps being left for stray fireworks to enter the hen house.

3) If you can place a battery powered radio in the hen house set on a low volume the external noise will be masked. It has been proven that hens are calmed by classical music but even a radio tuned to a talk show will give reassurance even if it doesn’t mask the noise.

4) Speak to your neighbours. If the family next door have a large display planned, ask them to direct any rockets away from your garden and if possible keep any bonfires as far away as they can. Excited children and loud music may also be a factor to consider.

5) Calming supplements can be given to help your hens cope – Rescue remedy (Bachs) Oregano or lavender supplements or even Chill Drops.

6) If it is not possible to cover your hen house or black out windows and you live close to an organised firework display site, you might consider moving your hens indoors to a garage or outbuilding where they will feel more protected.

7) If you are arranging such an event yourself, they try an arrange it with animals in mind and have the event where there is no or minimal disturbance caused (open field/away from animals/non in built up area) etc etc.

The above tips aren't really rocket science but common sense, but sadly these days people seem to be lacking that and we have to therefore do what we can to protect what's ours and make them feel safe and secure.

Spent fireworks can also be a problem as animals are naturally really inquisitive and if they come across any debris (for example) a stray rocket, spent matches or discarded fireworks/roman candles they may be tempted to eat or peck at the litter. If you are the event organiser then please clean up after yourself but if these are remnants of a display that end up in your field, garden, allotment or farm then pick them up and discard accordingly.

It's entirely possible that Bonfire Night and the fireworks season will pass your animals by without them putting even a feather or hair out of place, but to be on the safe side, have the tips above handy just in case they get spooked.

#tppchickenfacts

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Glossary of Avian Terminology

 

Glossary of Avian Terminology

This article is all about Avian Terminology and what the terminology used on many poultry forums and websites, actually means?

Air sacs
Thin membrane of the avian respiratory system that allows unidirectional flow of air into the lungs and through the body. There are a total of 9 air sacs, 4 paired (2 cervical sacs, 2 anterior thoracic sacs, 2 posterior thoracic sacs, 2 abdominal sacs) and 1 unpaired (interclavicular).

Anisodactyl
The most-common anatomical make-up of a birds foot, in which three toes point forward and one toe (hallux, or fist toe) points backwards, a characteristic of passerines.

Apteria
The featherless tracts on a bird. There are several, but the most useful is the apteric tract that exposes the jugular vein for venipuncture.

Blood feather
A new feather that is growing has a venous and arterial blood supply. This gives the feather a thickened, purple appearance. As the feather matures, the blood supply recedes.

Choana
A slit in the roof of a bird’s mouth (in the upper mandible). The choana connects the oropharynx inside the mouth with the nasal cavity. Numerous projections or papillae are found at the edge of the choana.

Choanal papillae
Several tiny projections that line the choanal slit. These papillae should be sharp, and blunting or absence is often attributed to nutritional deficiencies and/or respiratory illness.

Cloaca
The common posterior cavity into which the gastro-intestinal, urinary and genital tracts meet. All birds have this structure from which they excrete urine, feces eggs. Comes from the Latin word meaning “sewer”.

Dimorphism
The physical characteristics differentiate male from female species.

Feather
A keratinous structure covering the body of a bird. The central shaft is called the rachis. From this, multiple barbs and barbules emerge forming the feather. The feathers are lightweight and strong providing the bird with a protective covering as well as a mechanism for flight. Down feathers provide the bird with insulation and protect the skin from getting wet.

Fledgling
A baby bird that has left it’s nest but is not yet able to fly, or feed itself without assistance from it’s parents.

Heterodactyl
The unique anatomical make-up of a bird’s foot where digits 3 and 4 face forward, digits 1 and 2 face backward.

Lobate
The anatomy of bird’s foot where each toe (2, 3, 4) are edged with separate webbing. An example of this is seen in the American coot.

Palmate
The anatomical make-up of a bird’s foot where the front toes are connected by webbing. The most common type of webbed foot and is seen in ducks, geese, swans, gulls, turns and other aquatic species.

Pamprodacytl
The unique anatomical make-up of a bird’s foot where all four digits face forward, characteristic of swifts.

Pneumatic bone
Flighted birds have evolved some bones that are hollow and allow the bird to be light enough for flight. The pelvic bones, some ribs, the humerus, and femur all have large air filled medullary canals that are involved with the respiratory cycle during flight.

Polyostotic Hyperostosis
Radiographic evidence suggestive of hyperestrogenism that appears as calcification of the medullary spaces of the long bones, particularly of the femur and tibia.

Pterylae
The feather tracts on the skin of the bird from which the feathers grow.

Semipalmate
The anatomical make-up of a bird’s foot where the anterior toes are joined part way by a small webbing. May also be referred to as “half-webbed”.

Syndactyl
The anatomical make-up of a bird’s foot where the two front toes (second and third digits) are partially joined or webbed for much of their length. Common in kingfishers and hornbills.

Syrinx
The vocal organ of birds, located at the base of the trachea where it bifurcates into the bronchi. Not seen in all avian species.

Totipalmate
The anatomical make-up of a bird’s foot where all four toes are connected by a thin web. Seen in birds such as the cormorant and pelican.

Uropygial gland
Also known as the “preen gland.” It is a gland found on the dorsal aspect at the base of the tail, which secretes an oil used for preening. Not all species of birds will have a uropygial gland, such as the Amazon parrot.

Weaning
The process of a baby bird learning to eat solid/adult food and no longer being dependant on the parents for regurgitated food.

Wing trimming
The process of cutting the primary flight feathers to temporarily take away a bird’s ability to fly.

Zoonosis
An infectious disease that is able to be transmitted from humans to animals, or from animals to humans.

Zygodactyl
The second most common anatomical make-up of a bird’s foot, where the toes are arranged in pairs to help with grasping. The zygodactyl foot has two toes facing forwards (digits 2 3) and two toes facing backward (digits 1 or hallux, 4). Zygodactyl anatomy is found in the osprey, most woodpeckers, owls, cuckoos and parrots.

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Duck Poo Chart & Info

       

*** Duck Poo Chart and Information ***

All About Duck Poo

Duck Poo reveals a wealth of information for the observant owner and is a good indicator as to the health of the bird. With experience, you can easily monitor the health of your bird by observing for any changes in the poo. The early recognition of a poo change allows you to implement an immediate recovery plan that protects the health of the pet bird. Ducks make great pets and are fun to watch, but they are "very'' messy, and require proper care to stay healthy. With them being waterfowl the poo is often wetter than 'normal' and they have a quick metabolism so they poo around every 7 - 12 minutes on average and can live to be over 20 years old. Duck poo is usually directly related to what they have eaten as they have a fast eaten, what goes in comes out relatively quickly.

Abnormal Bird Droppings

• Increased size

• Oily, bulky

• Discoloured to a shade of green. Any colour from khaki to forest green.

• Are often wet

• Carry a smell

Loose droppings (can be caused by stress, disease, or certain foods), or droppings that contain undigested seeds can be a sign of diseases. Also change in colour of droppings.

Healthy Bird Droppings

• Small with a white cap

• Usually have a down feather attached to it

• Have no sign of wetness surrounding it

• Have no smell

In young birds clinical signs can include: rough plumage, low body temperature, tremor, lethargy, conjunctivitis, dyspnoea, emaciation, sinusitis, yellow to greenish droppings or greyish watery droppings. Adult birds may develop symptoms such as: tremors, lethargy, ruffled feathers, progressive weight loss, greenish diarrhoea, high levels of urates in droppings and occasional conjunctivitis.

The three components to most droppings

1. Urine consisting of a crystal urine called urates. Sometimes the Urine and Urates will combine and form a cloudy liquid, don't be alarmed if you can't always tell the two areas apart.

• Urates (the chalky white part)

• Green: Liver Disease or Anorexia

• Yellow: Liver Disease or Anorexia

• Brown: Lead Poisoning

• Red: Fresh Internal Bleeding (low in the digestive tract) or Kidney Disease

• Black in stool: Old blood

Increased Urates: Dehydration and possible kidney problems (Birds suffering from dehydration may have wrinkly skin around their eyes). Another way to diagnose dehydration is to pinch their skin for a second. Dehydrated skin will remain tented for several seconds, rather than bouncing right back. Hydrating a bird

2. A non-crystal urine called urine (clear water). Sometimes the two types of urine are mixed creating a cloudy white urine. Important changes include colour changes and amount. This part will appear chalky white and has a consistency that isn't really watery or solid. 

• Urine (the clear watery part)

• Green: Liver Disease

• Yellow: Liver Disease

• Red: Internal bleeding (low in the digestive tract), Lead Poisoning, Kidney Disease

Increased Urine: Drinking a lot, Eating foods high in water or Disease (often bacterial)

3. The third part of the droppings is the faeces which comes from the colon and consists of digested food and it's the only real solid part.. The faeces should be solid; it can be coiled up or uncoiled and it is okay if it is broken into pieces. It may be straight, coiled, or even broken up in to smaller yet still tube shaped pieces. The colour varies depending on the types of food eaten. Red pellets and strawberries produce a red coloured dropping. (This does not apply to the urine.) Seed and green vegetables produce a green dropping. (This does not apply to the urine either.) Blueberries and blackberries produce black droppings.

• Faeces (the solid tubular part)

• Black or Tar-like: Internal bleeding (high in the digestive tract) - potentially ingested something that is causing internal injury

• Pea Green: Liver Damage

• White or Clay colour: Pancreas or digestive problems

• Yellow to Greenish or Greyish Watery Droppings: One possibility: Chlamydophila

• Lumpy or Undigested food: Incomplete digestion, hypermotile intestine

Diarrhoea is when the faecal material is not holding its tubular shape - instead its consistency is that of pudding. Diarrhoea can be a sign of disease or stress - as well as being caused by special food items, One of the things to look for is blood in the faeces. If the faeces is fresh and black in colour and there were no blueberries in the diet then this indicates blood in the digestive system (melena). When the blood passes through the lower digestive system, it is digested turning the red blood into a black tarry colour, staining the faeces black. If you notice black droppings and the colour cannot be explained by the food it ate, take your pet to the vet immediately. This is serious and causes death if not treated in a timely manner. If you wait until your bird is weak and fluffed up, its chances are poor. Any change of colour that cannot be explained by the diet should be investigated by your veterinarian. Don't forget to look for real worms like tapeworms and roundworms.

Normal Duck Poo Pictures

Baby's Usually have a greenish tint to start

Normal Poo - Contains both Poo and Urate

Normal - Urine and Urate

Normal Poo - Hard with Urate

Normal - But Shows Lack Of Nutrition

Normal - But Shows Lack Of Nutrition

Normal - But Shows Lack Of Nutrition

Abnormal Duck Poo Pictures

Coccidiosis

Possible Kydney Disease

Internal Bleeding/Internal Injury

Digestive Troubles

Possible Liver Disease

Diarrhea

Anorexia / Aneamic

Urine Only

Parasitic Duck Poo Pictures

Worms

Worms

Worms

Tapeworms

Roundworms

** NOTE **

The article is a work in progress (so please don't pick fault) if there is anything wrong in terms of the information/pictures then please let us know so that we can edit, thanks. We will be constantly adding to it and updating it to make it better, but please bare with us. If you have any duck poo pictures or information that could be useful to us then please forward it onto us at thepoultrypagestv@gmail.com Thank you

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